The brilliant-cut is the most popular for diamonds, and for many other stones, particularly colourless ones. It ensures that maximum light is reflected out through the front, giving brightness and fire. Variations in the outline give the oval, the pear shaped pendeloque, and the boat-shaped marquise or navette.

The step-cut (or (rap-cut) shows coloured stones to advantage, having a rectangular or square table facet and girdle, with parallel rectangular facets. The corners of fragile gems may be removed, making octagonal stones - as, for example, in most emeralds.

MIXED-CUTS

Mixed-cut stones are usually rounded in outline, with the crowns (above the girdle) cut as brilliants, and the pavilions (below the girdle) step-cut. Sapphires, rubies, and most transparent coloured stones are cut in this style.

FANCY-CUTS

These have several possible outlines, such as triangular, kite-shaped, lozenge-shaped, pentagonal, ' hexagonal. The cut may be used for rare gems, or to make the most of a flawed or irregularly shaped gem