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FACETING
The most usual method of fashioning a gem is to cut the
surface into a number of flat faces, known as facets. This gives the stone
its final shape, or "cut". The craftsman, or lapidary, who cuts the stone
aims to show its best features, taking into account its colour, clarity, and
weight. He may, however, have to compromise to retain weight and therefore
value. There are several stages in the cutting of a gemstone,
each of which may be carried out by a different expert. In our example, a
rough diamond crystal is fashioned into a brilliant-cut. This is the most
popular cut for this stone because it maximizes the gem's naturally strong
light dispersion. However because each stone is a different shape, or has
imperfections within it, or because retaining the weight is of paramount
importance, the cut in its ideal form (the "make") may not be possible.
Nevertheless, the essential aim is to make the diamond bright and
"sparkling", showing flashes of colour called fire. To this end, the size,
number, and angles of the facets are mathematically calculated. The rough
crystal is sawn or cleaved to obtain a basic workable piece, then turned on
a lathe against another diamond to give it a round shape. The facets are
then cut and polished in stages, and the stone is given a final polish
before mounting.
Natural Gemstones
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